This article was originally published in Showsight Magazine, June 2013 issue.
Please note, this is not the official AKC standard for the Otterhound. It is our interpretation of the standard and what we strive for in our breeding program.
Otter hunting has a long and distinguished past spanning 800 years. Records of dogs kept specifically for otter hunting date back to the 12th century, during the reign of King Henry II. His son, King John, was the first Master of Otterhounds. These early packs likely consisted of Southern Hounds, Welsh Harriers, and crosses of the two.
The origins of the Otterhound as we know it today are debated, but it’s suspected that French hounds were foundational due to their resemblance to hounds of the Vendeen region, such as the Grand Griffon Vendeen and Griffon Nivernais. Generations of selective breeding have preserved the distinctive characteristics of the modern-day Otterhound.
In 1977, otters were added to the list of protected animals in England, posing a threat to the future of the purebred Otterhound in the UK. In response, The Kennel Club opened registration to hounds from two purebred packs: the Dumfriesshire Otter Hunt, presided over by Capt. John Bell-Irving, and the Kendal and District Otter Hunt. In 1978, Kendal Nimrod became the first Otterhound to compete in the English show ring.
Otterhounds arrived in the United States around 1910, primarily used in the field without registration. They were occasionally crossed with Foxhounds, and no efforts were made to breed pure Otterhounds. However, some purebred hounds from the early litters found homes. One of these, Bessie Blue, was purchased by Dr. Hugh Mouat, a veterinarian in Ithaca, NY. She was bred to Badger, another early import, marking the start of the Otterhound’s presence in the U.S.
Today, the Otterhound is still quite rare. Although few are used for scent hunting of raccoon, mink, bear, and mountain lion, more Otterhounds are seen in conformation, obedience, agility, search and rescue, including cadaver recovery, and as service dogs.
The Otterhound hunts its quarry on land and water, requiring unique traits among hounds. It is a large, rough-coated hound with an imposing head that conveys strength and dignity, a strong body, and a long-striding action suitable for long days of work. The Otterhound is amiable and boisterous, with a tenacious pursuit drive.
The parts of the Otterhound must fit together in a way that promotes tireless, graceful, and efficient movement. Any departure from the standard is considered a fault, with the seriousness judged in proportion to the degree of deviation.
A dog with insufficient leg length would need to swim rather than wade. Otterhounds are slightly rectangular, with the length from the shoulder to the tail base being slightly greater than the height at the withers. Balance, soundness, and type are prioritized over size.
Otterhounds are often required to hunt as much as 18 miles over rough terrain. They need great strength, endurance, and courage. Strong, dense bones with good substance and broad muscles are essential. While broad, heavy muscles may be more efficient in burning energy, they do not respond as quickly to action as smaller, longer muscles.
The head is considered majestic, being large, fairly narrow, and well-covered with hair. Its measurement extends from the point of the occiput to the tip of the nose, with the muzzle approximately equal in length to the skull. For a dog measuring 26″ at the withers, the head should be 11″-12″ long. Note that the British standard allows for a slightly shorter muzzle than the skull. The planes of the skull and muzzle are parallel. The skull is only slightly domed, and young hounds may have a prominent occiput. The stop is not pronounced.
The muzzle should be square, with no signs of snippiness. An Otterhound must possess a strong, crushing grip. A snippy hound with a lack of fill beneath the eyes is likely to have short tooth roots and consequently, a weaker grip in the molars. The flews are deep but not pendulous to prevent the otter from grabbing hold. The Otterhound standard prefers a scissors bite; however, the position of the front incisors plays only a minimal role in the crushing grip that allows the hound to overpower its quarry. An overshot mouth is often a result of a receding jaw, which results in a less powerful bite.
The nose is large and dark, usually black, but it may be slate-colored or brown in blue or liver hounds. In the United States, the standard calls for a fully pigmented nose, which does not affect the dog’s hunting abilities. Wide-open, forward-facing nostrils are crucial for providing the large surface area needed for enhanced scenting abilities.
The expression and demeanor of the Otterhound are amiable. Aggressiveness or shyness is not acceptable, as otter hunting was often a spectator sport, and hounds should never terrorize the neighbors.
The eyes are deep-set, with only slight visibility of haw. They are typically dark brown, although they may vary slightly with coat color. As with nose color, the eye color does not impact the Otterhound’s hunting capabilities. A round, prominent eye is at risk of being scratched in the field and should be severely penalized.
The ears are a defining feature of Otterhound type. They are long and pendulous, with the leading edge rolling to create a draped appearance. Ears are set at or below the level of the eye. When excited, dogs often pull their ears high on their heads. Show photographers should avoid throwing objects to capture the dog’s attention.
The ears should reach at least to the tip of the nose, and the leather is thick and well-covered with hair. A thin ear is likely to rip in the field. Because the ear is nearly water-tight, Otterhounds are prone to frequent ear infections. The inside of the ear may be trimmed for health reasons.
The neck is thick and powerful, designed to hold the head above water and long enough to reach the ground while hunting on land. However, longer muscles can sometimes lack strength. The neck blends smoothly into the shoulders. A ewe neck would severely compromise the cervical ligaments, making it exhausting to keep the head above water. A slight dewlap is permissible. A dog without thick, protective skin around the neck would be vulnerable to critical, potentially fatal wounds from their quarry. The abundance of hair on the neck often makes it appear shorter than it actually is.
The topline is level from the withers to the base of the tail. Otterhounds have an oval-shaped rib cage, with ribs extending well back to provide a large area for the heart and lungs. The brisket line runs parallel to the ground up to the 8th or 9th rib; an upward sweep would impair heart and lung capacity. A rounded rib cage would also affect the chest cavity. The chest is deep, reaching at least to the elbows in a mature hound, although this is usually evident in young dogs as well. The forechest is prominent.
The loin is short, broad, and strong. A rise over the loin should not be confused with thick muscle mass; a long loin often correlates with straight shoulders and should be penalized.
The tail is set high and reaches at least to the hock. It is carried in a sabre fashion and should never be curled over the back. The muscles carrying the tail are a continuation of the muscles in the loin. The tail has an extremely thick root and tapers to a point, with good feathering. Huntsmen often recognize their hounds only by the tips of their tails when hunting in thick brush.
The front assembly is perhaps the most important part of the Otterhound. It must be strong enough to support the dog’s weight and absorb the shock of gaiting. The shoulders form the foundation of this assembly. Since Otterhounds single track at a slower speed than most other breeds, a loaded shoulder that pushes the elbows out often leads to single tracking, which may be rewarded by inexperienced observers. This can quickly lead to fatigue. A straight shoulder will shorten the stride and also contribute to fatigue.
The legs are strongly boned and straight. Pasterns are slightly sprung, with the heel pad directly under the center of gravity. A pastern that is too straight will shift weight onto the toes and may cause injury, which is also a risk if the pasterns turn in or out. The added load on the bones can lead to the front end breaking down more quickly than in a well-constructed hound. It is not unusual to find a well-constructed hound still hunting at the age of 10. Dewclaws may be removed.
The feet are extremely large and broad, with webbing between the toes that allows the foot to spread over rocky, uneven terrain. The condition of the pads is crucial, especially the heel pad, which must withstand the shock of gaiting. Paper-thin or splayed feet are unacceptable.
The rear assembly is designed more for locomotion than for weight-bearing. The thighs and second thighs are large, broad, and powerful, while the croup is flat. Stifles are moderately bent; a straight stifle would shorten the stride and lead to early fatigue. The hocks are well let down and short compared to the length of other bones, which aids in increasing the Otterhound’s endurance.
The Otterhound must demonstrate the ability to work for long hours. There is no wasted motion in their gait, which is maintained over many miles. They move freely with great forward reach and drive, displaying a loose, shambling walk that springs into a loose, very long striding, active trot. Te head is extended forward when trotting. Te Otterhound singletracks at a slow speed and may shuffle at a walk or slow trot as lifting the foot high off the ground would require excess energy. However, the “Otterhound shuffle” may not be appreciated when the dog is active or alert as in the show ring. While it is suggested that the Otterhound be shown on a loose lead, this is not usually possible because of their short attention span and instinct to follow their nose.
The coat is another essential feature of the breed. Texture is more important than coat length, and color is immaterial. The coat must be oily to enhance water resistance, complemented by a short, woolly undercoat for warmth. A soft coat would become extremely heavy when wet, hindering endurance. A lack of an undercoat is a serious fault, although it’s important to note that Otterhounds typically lose most, if not all, of their undercoat during the summer months.
While black or dark-colored hair is always thicker than white or blonde hair, softness should never be tolerated. Otterhounds should not be discriminated against based on color. Like all dogs, Otterhounds should be shown and kept clean. A freshly bathed dog with a proper coat will not be adversely affected by a shampoo bath, although the oil may not be as apparent afterward.
Being a working hound, the Otterhound should be shown in its natural state. Any evidence of scissoring or sculpting should be severely penalized. A “naturally” stripped coat is permissible. Since most modern-day Otterhounds are not turned loose in the field, a bit of “tidying up” is acceptable.
