One of the main reasons dogs are brought to me for training is the owner’s complaint that his dog just doesn’t listen to him. Most of these are young house dogs that have lots of independence and little quality time with their owner. I get it. Before I retired, I had that same situation with my dogs. Now that I am retired and home, I have learned some tricks to change a dog’s attitude towards (not) listening to me. These techniques work as long as they are used. But if I send a dog home where these management tools are not implemented, the dog will revert to his pre-training mindset. These management tips are simple practices and include:
These practices do not need to take up a lot of time, except maybe the pack run, but that is not only good for one’s relationship with their dog, it’s also good for the owner’s health and fitness, so it is well worth the time invested. A 20-to-30-minute walk with dogs three or more times a week is perfect. Finding a place to walk dogs safely is key, and teaching a reliable recall is a must. I use an electronic collar to reinforce coming when called, which has worked well for me. Once dogs are collar conditioned, most of them can run free without wearing the electronic collar. Some, however, have poor impulse control, which means I don’t trust them to come if a bunny rabbit jumps out in front of us. Those dogs wear an electronic collar just in case, but I find I rarely need to use it.
Using this preparation for running free, I have taken packs as large as fifteen dogs on runs like this. They love it. Pack runs allow dogs to get an optimum amount of exercise without dragging their owners around. This activity promotes trust and allows one to reinforce coming when called. It’s all about sharing the kind of adventure dogs love. Adding a few delectable treats in the owners’ pockets provides one more tool to get the desired response when the dogs are called. I highly encourage dog owners who are considering this tactic to seek someone experienced in collar conditioning, to prepare their dogs for pack runs.
A great promoter of independent attitudes, i.e., “why should I do that, what’s in it for me,” is a free-feeding schedule. Many owners who send me dogs that “won’t listen” feed their dogs using this free-choice method. They fill the bowl and make it available at all times, refilling it when the dog empties it, which may be six hours later or the next day. This habit takes away the dog’s dependence on its owner for a very basic need and permits the dog to feed itself whenever it wants.
The first thing I do with new dogs that are free-feeders is to put them on a regular feeding schedule and feed them in their crates or by hand. Once I have given the dog its food bowl, the dog gets 20-30 minutes to eat. After that, I take the bowl away, empty or full, and save the leftovers for the next meal. Many dogs that are adjusting to this new feeding method initially don’t eat and may skip two to three meals. I know that dogs will not starve themselves, so I respect the dog’s choice not to eat. However, if a dog is slow to switch to regular meals, I will intervene by offering food by hand or adding something like dehydrated liver or a bit of canned food to the bowl to stimulate its sense of smell and thus entice it to eat. Once the dog begins eating, the transition is usually complete. It seems that this change increases the dog’s interest in me and what pleases me, making the dog’s interest in training sessions much better.
Another management issue that promotes a dog’s sense of independence is full-time freedom around the house. Such dogs do anything they want whenever they want. Again, this creates a dog that doesn’t need his owner for fun or entertainment. So, I create periods of boredom by putting the dogs into crates for naps each afternoon. A two-to-three-hour nap not only gives me time to do other things, it also prevents misadventures that satisfy the dog’s need to entertain itself.
In other words, before admission to my training program, the dog had learned at home that he doesn’t need his owner to enjoy himself. So again, the independent dog thinks, “Why should I do that when I can have fun doing this digging game once you’re out of my way?” I take advantage of this concept by structuring the dogs’ days such that they have a mix of free play, exercise, training, and confinement. Training sessions are most successful after periods of confinement, as dogs are eager to do something with me after naps. It also helps that it is before evening feedings.
Training and learning new things can be stressful for dogs, so giving dogs opportunities to dispel the nervous energy produced by stress is very helpful. Dogs that are stressed have difficulty learning, whether their reaction is hyperactivity or freezing.
I use positive feedback for the dogs I am teaching. I have found that dogs that are stressed often refuse treats the first day or two, but that changes as we get to know each other. To relieve dogs of this tension, I incorporate two strategies. One is play time, in which I create fun games that the dog enjoys. This may include a beloved toy or something as simple as a stick. I also form small play groups comprised of carefully selected dogs in training that are introduced and monitored for appropriate and acceptable behavior. This small group (usually four dogs) is given free time in a play yard to do whatever they want. Toys are available, but most of the young dogs opt to play with each other. The group is monitored (from a great new deck, I might mention) to assess body language and harmony.
Dogs that do not seem to fit in and get along are separated and tried in another group. Rarely do I fail to find at least two dogs that get along well. The second outlet for tension is our “pack run,” as mentioned above. I use a large, wide-open field away from roads, buildings, or farm animals. I avoid woods, because I can’t see all the dogs at all times in wooded areas. Secondly, I don’t know what’s hiding in there. Deer are great to chase, and coyotes will lure dogs into nasty ambushes. And then there are skunks, but there’s no need to explain that one. These pack runs have consisted of 10 to 15 dogs at once unless I have dogs that I don’t trust together or have bitches in season. In those cases, I split the group in two and walk twice. All dogs participating are collar conditioned and reliable before being allowed to run loose.
New dogs are usually ready to join the pack run after successful collar conditioning, which may not occur until two or three weeks into training. These newer dogs wear electronic collars and drag a long rope until I think they are trustworthy. This part of our program has made a big difference in some dogs; I have observed shy dogs gain confidence in this social setting and change some of their reactive behaviors at home. High-strung dogs tend to settle more, burning off some of their excess energy. Antisocial behaviors are corrected on these walks to maintain harmony in the pack and teach better doggie manners for future dog encounters. These “adventures” are highly valued by each dog, such that I have every dog’s attention when I ask if they want to go “Run-Run.” They love it!
In summary, these management tips help to change a dog from an independent soul that couldn’t care less about me, his owner, or his handler to a much more engaged and willing partner. After all, these methods promote the dog’s dependence on his owner, trainer, or handler for food, fun, exercise, comfort, mental stimulation, safety, and great treats. What more could any respectable dog ask for?
