This article was originally published in Showsight Magazine, July 2015 issue.
Shelties are a “newer” breed as established breeds go. The original dogs stood 8-10 inches and were bred for several purposes. First, the indigenous dogs were bred to help crofters on Shetland make a living. They helped drive the small sheep into stone pens for dipping and removal of wool. They kept sheep from the meager gardens on these windswept islands, they accompanied sheep to grazing on remote islands, and they kept birds of prey away from lambs and away from fish drying in the sun. The original dogs may have originated in Scandinavia. Then came English vacationers, and they became a “rare” breed to be sold as pets. At this point, there were crosses with Pomeranians and possibly something like English toy spaniels to make them more attractive small pets. Once they became a breed, they needed a name.
In appearance, “Shetland Collies” so offended Collie breeders (they looked very little like Collies) that the breed name was changed to Shetland Sheepdog. It was a bit of a rough start. It got rougher when the English Shetland Sheepdog Club (1914) worked hard to create a dog similar to a Collie but much smaller. This type change was accomplished by crossing dogs from Shetland with full-sized Collies. Some of the best early dogs were close to the Collie crosses and, while they excelled in type, they tended to throw wild size variations. Many of these were shipped to the US to form the base of US breeding. Today, US Shelties and Shelties in the UK can look very different. What this brief history means to judges is that breeders have battled with major appearance variations and a continuing battle with size since the breed was established here.
Shelties are generally considered to be a specialist type breed. Why? While the standard clearly states that the dog’s outline should be so symmetrical that no part appears out of proportion to the whole, there are details, lots of important details, and details that separate the Sheltie from the Collie. A Sheltie must have it all—a beautiful, graceful, functional outline, a beautiful, correctly detailed head, sound legs, agility, and the endearing temperament and willingness that has made so many devotees for the breed. In outline, everything must fit together. The outline consists of a graceful curve of the neck into well-laid shoulders, a level relatively short back, and a graceful curve of the croup to the set on of the tail. The dog is well-angulated with balanced angulation front and rear and is longer than tall but never overlong since much of the length has to do with proper angles. Shelties should never appear short on leg (breeders call these “scorgies”). Shelties should be extremely agile. They should be able to clear a fairly tall fence. They excel in agility when well-made. So short legs are a definite drag on the breed.
The Sheltie head is detailed, distinctive, and there is a great degree of difficulty breeding it to be exactly right. As the standard says, it’s all about balance. Skull and muzzle are equal in length. The shape is a refined long blunt wedge looking down or from the side. This refinement has a lot to do with clean flat cheeks to make that wedge shape viewed from the sides. The planes of the head are parallel and the stop is slight but definite. Parallel planes mean a flat skull and a straight line on the top of the muzzle. There is delicate chiseling of the head. Shelties have sufficient muzzle and underjaw to complete the blunt wedge shape viewed from the side. The muzzle is nicely finished and never snipey. But the whole thing is refined, not bulky.
Now add the beautiful dark eyes (blue allowed in merles) set slightly obliquely and the beautiful high set small ears tipped ¾ erect. And let the head show a sweet, beguiling, intelligent expression in this exquisitely refined head. Sheltie structure should be exemplary. With excellent angulation in front once again, there is balance with the shoulder blade and upper arm of equal length. There is a slight bend in the pastern, and the feet should be oval (not round) and compact and strong. There is excellent angulation in the rear with well-let-down hocks. This angulation balances the angulation in the front. There is no turning in or out looking front or rear. The body has nicely sprung ribs and an oval rib cage. The tail should be carried as an extension of the backline, not elevated above the back. Sheltie coats should be waterproof and double.
They should have a harsh outer coat and a soft undercoat. The coat should not be soft, curly, or wavy. Quality of coat is more important than quantity. Sheltie colors are not difficult except that we have some breeders who ignore the standard and show dogs that have too much white. The wording on white came about because when the standard was revised, AKC did not want the club to add both a DQ for height and a DQ for predominantly white. The wording in the standard reflects the club’s desire to eliminate more than 50% from competition. The colors are Black, blue merle, and Sable. The problem is that merle is a dilution factor, and when breeders ignore that, they can come up with what is called a sable merle. Sable merle is NOT a listed color for the breed. Sheltie temperament is that of an intensely loyal, intelligent, responsive dog that is reserved toward strangers but willing, ready, and able to do what his owner wants to do. Sheltie gait is light-footed, sure, ground-covering, smooth, and balanced. The dog carries its head forward as it goes. It never looks like work when everything is correct. Note this is a full dentition breed. Look at the whole mouth, including premolars.
Some Shelties these days are very short of teeth. As a judge, here are some insider comments. Some handlers have gone over the cliff with grooming. The Sheltie is supposed to be a beautiful, essentially natural breed. Catherine Moore, author of the first important American book on the breed, called them Fairy Collies. The dogs should be sturdy but not bulky in bone. Shelties should not have legs back brushed to look like tree trunks or the rough around the neck sculptured, teased, or sprayed! The outline should be there without attempts to groom it in. Dogs with teased roughs will have an odd outline gaiting. The rough should not be combed up over the top of the ears! I will also mention foreign and domestic substances. No hair spray should be used. These are not poodles or Bichons. These are herding dogs. The dogs should not be enhanced with black and brown chalks. And then to ears—check them. Dogs with globs of powdered metal filings to get the ears to tip should be excused.
Anything brown or black should not come off on your hands. I always say subtle should have a capital B in it that is neither seen nor heard or in this case felt. Now as to size, remember the breed history. Size is a constant issue. The standard is 13-16 inches, and outside of those limits is a DQ. 99.999% of DQs will come at the top of the standard. As a breeder, I value a really good dog in the middle of the standard. It would be nice not to always be pushing against the upper limit. Feel free to measure. There are many things listed in the standard as faults. Take them all seriously. As a breeder, flatness at the zygomatic arch on the side of the head is very difficult to get. When you get it in your ring, prize it. Sliding stops and fat backskulls are not correct type. Always remember this is a whole dog, beautiful overall and beautiful in every detail.
