This article was originally published in Showsight Magazine, May 2014 issue.
In judging the Siberian Husky, the first thing to remember is his job: carrying a light load at a moderate speed over great distances in a very cold climate. The essence of breed type for the Siberian includes all of the characteristics required of an athletic, endurance sled dog. Standing back to form that initial impression of the dog, the judge should be asking if the length of the dog is slightly longer than the dog is tall; if there is slightly more daylight under the dog than the apparent depth of the body; if the dog has well laid-back shoulders and matching angles in the rear; if the neck is well arched and of sufficient length; if the topline is strong and level; if there is a slope to the croup and a well set-on tail; if the head is in balance and pleasing; if the coat does not obscure the outline of the dog.
This observation should give the judge an idea of how the dog will move, and what the judge will discover during the physical examination; the judge will form an impression of the dog’s strengths, and potential concerns. When approaching the dog, it is best done from the front so as not to surprise the dog. A Siberian could greet you with kisses or reserve. Be aware that few Siberians will stand still as statues! You should, however, not expect shyness or aggression. Although Siberian breed type is not limited to his head, you will find a number of our treasured breed characteristics in the head. The Standard for Siberian Huskies calls only for a scissors bite. So, checking the bite is a very quick process. In looking at the Siberian’s head, you should see an intelligent, interested, even mischievous gaze—which is significantly due to the almond-shaped, trifle obliquely set eyes. If the eyes are round, the quizzical expression will not be there.
The length of muzzle and distance from stop to occiput should be approximately equal. And, although a treasured breed characteristic, Siberians’ ears are often a barometer of their mood, as Siberians can do many things with their ears. The Standard calls for an ear that is high on the head, medium, thick, triangular, strongly erect, pointing straight upward, and well furred. The head attaches to the body by a well-arched medium-length neck. Although the Standard does not mention the prosternum, a correctly built Siberian needs a prosternum that you should easily be able to feel. The width of chest between the front legs should not be broader than the width of your hand. The Siberian Standard calls for well laid back shoulders, and although not specifically mentioned in the Standard, the shoulder blade and upper arm should be approximately equal in length.
Due to the coat, you will need to use your hands to “measure” these bones, as well as the angle of the shoulder layback. Look for the position of the forelegs, which should be “well under” the dog. Never forget the importance of the front assembly in a working sled dog. The feet of a Siberian are one of his greatest assets in the snow. They should be medium-sized, oval in shape, toughly padded, compact, and well-furred. Although proportion is easier to see from afar, the physical examination helps determine the depth of chest, and distance from elbow to top of withers. Thick fur at the withers may make a dog appear taller than he actually is. The Siberian Standard has an upper height disqualification, but no preference should be given to either extreme or the middle of the provided range. If you have ANY doubt about an exhibit’s height, please measure the dog! A correct Siberian coat is a smooth-lying, dense, double coat, and should never obscure the overall outline of the dog.
In order to be assured of the limits of the body and the overall structure of the dog, feel through the coat. In doing so, you can also determine the dog’s muscling, weight, the correctness of the coat, as well as the shape of the Siberian’s rib cage. The ribs should be sprung but flattened on the sides for freedom of movement. Remember that the Standard for Siberian Huskies states that weight is in proportion to height. A correct Siberian Husky should NEVER appear “husky” in his build. The Siberian’s topline should appear level. Because grooming and hand stacking can affect the appearance of the topline, please evaluate the topline not only by looking as the dog is stacked but also by feeling the topline and watching it as the dog moves. The topline of the Siberian should be straight and strong but with some flexibility. This flexibility is different from a weak back. When viewed from above, the dog’s loin is narrower than the ribcage, and when viewed from the side, you will see a slight tuck-up at the loin. The croup should slope from the topline, and the tail should be set on below the level of the topline.
The slope to the croup and tail set can be seen when the dog is moving but also when the dog is standing by placing your hand on the croup (feeling the downward angle) while gently picking up the tail to see where it is set. The tail of the Siberian Husky is a remarkable thing. Some dogs may drop their tails, while others are carried over the back in a sickle shape, and others will wag it furiously. Even when moving, a tail may be up, down, wagging, or trailing—all perfectly acceptable. The most important aspect of the tail is that it is set on correctly, does not curl tightly or to one side, and that it is of fox-brush shape. Remember that you never need to see a Siberian’s tail over his back in the ring. Evaluate the hindquarters while the dog is moving.
But, how a dog stands can provide some indicators of how the dog will move. A hock significantly behind the rear of the pelvis can mean excessive rear angulation or unequal bone length. It is important that the angles of the forequarters balance with the angles of the hindquarters. You can use your hands to measure the pelvis and thighs, wanting them of approximately the same length. From the rear, hindquarters should be moderately spaced and parallel. The Standard allows for variety in coat color, eye color, and markings. Although allowable, some markings and colors might be confusing when evaluating the dog. For example, a head with more white might appear broader than a darker head—even if the heads have identical conformation. Look at the underlying structure, not the color or markings. Far more important than color is the length, texture, and double nature of the coat. Long, harsh coats are not desirable. And, trimming of the coat, other than the whiskers or feet, should not be condoned. When the dog moves away from you, he may initially not single track.
However, as the speed increases, the legs should angle inward under the dog, eventually meeting the imaginary line under the longitudinal center of the dog—which is single tracking. The same is true for the dog when moving toward you. You want to see those legs come together in a “V.” Side movement is the opportunity to see the proof of your physical exam. A well-built Siberian gaiting should appear to float effortlessly with no wasted motion. Please require that handlers move Siberians at a loose lead at a moderate speed. When gaiting, the Siberian’s head should be carried a bit down and forward, and remember that the tail can do many things. A Siberian should move “within himself,” meaning that the gait should be a controlled trot.
The Standard calls for the length of leg from elbow to ground to be slightly longer than the distance from elbow to top of withers. In full extension, the forelegs of the Siberian should meet the ground under the dog’s nose, with the rear extension being approximately equal. The inside rear leg should fall where the front leg just left, and this should be under the center of the body (both front-to-back and side-to-side). A dog that lifts high in the front or kicks up in the rear is expending too much energy moving, often indicating a lack of balance, poor proportion, or incorrect speed. Inside legs meeting somewhere other than the center of the body, overreaching or underreaching, could indicate a lack of balance between the shoulder and rear assemblies, or incorrect proportions. Although the Siberian gait should in no way be exaggerated, it is important that the Siberian covers ground with a good stride. Dogs with fast foot turnover and choppy gait usually expend too much energy moving and do not possess the correct proportion and angles called for in the Standard.
Watch the topline as the dog moves; it should remain firm and level. There should be no bouncing at the withers or pounding at the front or rolling of the topline. Any of these may indicate structural shortcomings, such as straight or loose shoulders, too much rib spring, too long in the body, or poor conditioning. It is when gaiting that you should see all of the good qualities apparent during your examination of the dog (correct proportion, good angles, firm muscling, balance) come together harmoniously to allow for the hallmark seemingly effortless gait of the Siberian. Please do not let the repetition of “moderate” and “medium” in the Siberian Standard make you think we are looking for average and mediocre. We call for a well laid-back shoulder—do not accept an average shoulder as being good enough. We ask for good proportion and balance—do not think that mediocrity in proportion and balance is acceptable. We want good reach and drive—do not think that an average or short stride is sufficient. Please do not think that “medium” and “moderate” means you should reward average and mediocre. (See Figure 1.)
Here is a picture of a young dog that illustrates the proportions called for in the Standard for Siberian Huskies. The Green Horizontal line measures the length of body based on the Siberian Standard, “from the point of shoulder to the rear point of croup.” Duplicating that same line and rotating it vertical, when placed on the ground, that distance should be slightly longer than the dog’s height at the withers. (The dog’s withers are marked by a short blue horizontal line.) In this illustration, the dog’s body is approximately 11% longer than the dog’s height at the withers. The Standard further calls for a leg (from elbow to ground) slightly longer than the distance from the elbow to the top of the withers. The red vertical line measuring the distance from the dog’s elbow to ground has been duplicated and placed at the elbow.
This line extends higher than the dog’s withers. In this illustration, the elbow-to-ground measurement is approximately 11% longer than the distance from the elbow to withers. When judging the Siberian Husky, please keep in mind that these are working, endurance, sled dogs. The Breed’s proud history and heritage should be seen in all exhibits. The Siberian in your show ring today should not be much different in structure and type from those original imports or from those that saved Nome in 1925. Never stop asking yourself if the dog in your ring looks like an athlete that could run thousands of miles in harsh snowy conditions. Reward those that could.
