The Miniature American Shepherd

This article was originally published in Showsight Magazine, May 2019 issue.

The Miniature American Shepherd

The Miniature American Shepherd was developed by breeding smaller Australian Shepherds to produce a downsized version of the breed. It takes many decades to downsize a breed properly and retain all the original qualities in shape and form. Throughout the process, especially early on, most planned and well-researched crosses are just one step in the right direction.

If the goal of the breeder is quality over size, which is of utmost importance, it takes many generations to cement the body type and proportions needed. Being an AKC Breeder Judge, the Miniature American Shepherd Club’s Judges Education Coordinator, approved presenter of educational seminars as well as ringside and long-term mentor of judges looking to be approved to judge our breed, I am often asked what the problems we face as a breed are and what we need to improve upon.

That is a difficult question, as it changes year by year. I have been breeding Mini American Shepherds for 25 years, and as a breed, we are still working on consistency in shape and form. Some crosses will produce smaller sizes, but the price you pay may be short upper arms and a lack of loin since all body parts do not downsize equally. Others will produce shorter legs on an otherwise comparatively larger body, resulting in a look of dwarfism. Of course, this is not what we are looking for in our breed.

The breed standard states that their upper arms (humerus) are equal in length to the shoulder blade. The loin is strong and broad when viewed from the top. They are equidistant in height, measuring 50% from ground to elbow and 50% from elbow to the withers. Other problem areas are the length of body vs. height, which when measuring from the point of the shoulder blade to the point of the buttocks and from the highest point of the shoulder blade to the ground, should be slightly longer than tall, meaning about a 9-10 ratio. Downsizing can often result in a boxy or cobby body type, which is usually due to a lack of loin.

I like to see 2/3 rib cage to 1/3 loin. So, each generation requires an honest evaluation of both the dam and sire. Know what you need to improve upon and breed accordingly. You must have both short- and long-term goals clearly established in your breeding program, always comparing your plan to the Breed Standard. The short-term goals are what you expect to get out of any specific cross. Long-term goals include how you expect to cement a body type and temperament as close to the Breed Standard as possible. Even though any given breeding program has used only Australian Shepherd bloodlines, they can still experience toy features during the downsizing process. Domed skulls, round or protruding eyes, prick ears, and slight bone are all things to be strongly avoided. We are looking for length of muzzle that is equal to the length and width of the crown, almond-shaped eyes, neither protruding nor sunken, and ears at full attention should break forward and over or to the side as a rose ear.

It is important to note that this breed is to be shown in a natural presentation, leaving whiskers on and minimal scissoring. We do not want our breed to be shown sculpted. A good breeder should start to see that they are more consistently producing males that are between 14 and 18 inches and bitches between 13 and 17 inches at the top of the withers with moderate bone in proportion to body height and size. They should have a full and deep chest reaching the elbow with well-sprung ribs, possessing compact feet with well-arched toes. The angulation of the pelvis and upper thigh (femur) should mirror the angulation of the shoulder blade and upper arm. They need short hocks (short hocks being 1/3 of the total height) and acceptable coat colors, along with all of the aforementioned qualities. That is when you know you have achieved a correct and solid breeding program.